By Catherine Quinn

If you’re touching down in Kenya, the chances are you’re headed to the fertile shores of Lake Nakuru, the paradisal beaches of Mombasa or out on a longer safari. Almost anywhere, in fact, than the famous capital itself. But as visitors become ever more adventurous, many are realising that a stop-off in Nairobi can form a cultural highlight and that this lively city offers far more than meets the eye.

Small but perfectly formed, Kenya’s capital may not offer the sculpted elegance of European cities, but with a heart and soul that is pure Africa, there’s much more to enjoy than urbane architecture.

Be brave and take the local bus around town for immediate immersion in local life. These jaunty affairs feature conductors who memorise faces rather than issue tickets and at certain times are boarded by lively salespeople. Continuing the theme, jumping off at the dusty bus station in the centre of town is a chaos of vehicles and touts gaily shouting destinations into the dusty air.

Back in the centre, African culture takes the form of more established entertainments. Boasting world-renowned eateries, Nairobi’s Carnivore and Tamarind restaurants guarantee well sated palates and can also be found further afield in Mombasa. Nominated among the globe’s fifty best restaurants by Restaurant Magazine, Carnivore offers a sumptuous variety of grilled game meats, served by wandering waiters who replenish your plate as soon as it empties. Diners are issued with a flag that they keep raised as long as they are hungry. When the meat gets too much, lowering the flag means the diners are content.

Whilst food is joyfully celebrated, Nairobi is also headquarters to a local drink legend – Tusker Beer. It’s perhaps for this reason that you’re never far from a chilled bottle of the iconic local brew, which comes close to tea and football as a much-loved local obsession. Throughout the city, colourful elephant-emblazoned labels wave their trunks from bars restaurants, internet cafes, corner shops and street stalls. Bearing the proud Swahili motif “Bia Yangu, Nchi Yangu”, or “My Beer, My Country”. And it’s in the lively clubs and bars of the centre that you’ll find the beer flowing freely alongside music, dancing and general partying until the small hours.

So whether you’re driving out to enjoy Nairobi’s premier eating, sinking a Tusker beer with the locals, or delving into the city’s less salubrious side, this eclectic and mesmerising city has plenty to keep you occupied. And whilst many will pass through Nairobi on their way to Mombasa beaches or onto the iconic Maasai Mara, it’s well worth finding a tour operator who will include a day in the capital.

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