The Traverati Blog

Kieran Meeke heads to Finnish Lapland with one of the world's best-known wildlife photographers, Lassi Rautiainen

Ice floating on a river at dusk

Well, I’ve now got my Reindeer Driving Certificate and the good news is that there is no drink-driving restriction on this form of transport. In fact, I suspect it may even be encouraged.
I’ve been visiting Finnish Lapland with one of the world’s best-known wildlife photographers, Lassi Rautiainen (www.arcticmedia.fi).
In temperatures down at close to minus 30, I’ve mainly been birdwatching. One day was spent in a hide (heated to a cosy 10degrees), waiting for eagles to attack some carcasses he had left out for them.  The next day, we drove around the beautiful countryside, a frozen landscape of trees laden with snow, snapping rare birds such as the Lap Tit. Lassi told me twitchers come from UK especially to see that one species.

Today, it was up first thing to go to Kuusamo’s municipal dump to stalk a wonderful Goshawk in the golden light of early morning. The smell, even in the sub-zero weather, of putrid rubbish was forgotten as we watched it for nearly 20 minutes through our long lenses (Lassi was using a 500mm with a x2 converter, since you asked.) It’s unusual for a bird of prey to sit so long for a pair of photographers but his patience was explained when he suddenly stooped on a red squirrel. Breakfast in one sudden movement.
Labouring through the trees in hip deep powder snow, we tried for a closer look at the bird on its kill – when they are eating they don’t disturb too easily – but had no luck despite our hard work. We did find evidence of several other kills: a raven, another unidentified pile of small bones.
Then a quick detour to snap some more rarities before rushing back to Ruka ski resort (www.ruka.fi) for lunch and to change hotels all inside 30 minutes before getting kitted up for an afternoon safari (www.rukapalvelu.fi).
Safari in this case meant a reindeer ride. I was a bit surprised to see I was riding a sledge by myself, pulled by one reindeer. But I need not have worried, as it was tied to the one in front, which was driven by an expert guide. I was led around around the forest for some 2km before we repaired to a kota – a traditional Lappish lodge with a log fire in the centre – for some tea and cake.
I was expecting something similar when we then went off for a Husky dog ride. But I was caught hopping when I found myself dashing off into the woods on my own with six dogs panting away in front of me. One foot on each skid, foot on the brake when going downhill, get off and push to help them uphill. I nearly turned over on one fast bend but I made the 5km with no real worries. No driving licence for that though.
Just time to warm up with some sausage and tea before my late afternoon snowmobile ride as the sun goes down. Tomorrow it’s either skiing or snow-shoeing, or even both. Lapland is certainly a winter playground but all this unaccustomed exertion may be the Finnish of me.